Phil grinning

Phil Willis Online

home  bio  pics  stories  links 

Jan 11th

Saw one of Alexandro Jodorowsky's films tonight: The Rainbow Thief.

I didn't like it as much as his others I'd seen, such as Il Topo or Holy Mountain probably in part because it was dubbed into Italian.

Jodorowsky's films rely heavily on symbolism and mime so I didn't think the language would be a barrier, but I think it would have been more enjoyable in English.

Jan 10th

I went to a fantastic exhibition today on the history of tarot cards.

They had an incredible collection of hand drawn card decks dating from the sixteenth century.

It was cool to see the evolution from the "minor arcana" of swords, wands, cups and coins to the "suits" spades, clubs, hearts and diamonds of our modern cards.

Jan 8th

Soccer is back after it's xmas break and I almost got to see a live game.

We had been thinking about hiring a car this weekend and taking a trip through Tuscany so I didn't bother buying a ticket to the local Siena versus Inter game today.

I wasn't too worried. I thought I'd just as easily watch it from a local pub.

I was wrong.

The pubs were closed so I did what a lot of the other locals with poor planning (or no money) did. I watched the game by peering through the chain link fence that surrounded the field.

The atmosphere was great, with most of the time spent chanting soccer songs to the tunes of:
  • The Lion Sleeps Tonight
  • Oh-ley, oh-ley, oh-leeey ... (oh ley! oh ley!)
  • the US civil war marching tune that goes "the ants come marching two by two ... hurrah, hurrah"
  • the British marching tune that goes "Hitler has only got one ball"


    • Jan 6th

    Buona festa! Felice Befana!

    Yes, it's hard to believe, but we managed to find ourselves excused from school because of another public holiday.

    As best I can tell, Befana involves a witch who climbs down your chimney, fills your hanging stockings with sweets (if you've been good) or lumps of coal if you've been bad.

    Um - I don't mean to be rude, but didn't you Italians just steal that idea from Santa Claus!

    Not very original I'm afraid.

    The best part is - you can actually buy sweets in the form of lumps of coal. They're called "zucchero carbone", although I'm not sure what message you'd be sending your children if you gave them one:

    "Giovanni, although the Befana witch thinks you've been naughty, at least the lump of coal is made of candy!"

    Yeah, eat your coal kid while you think about what you've put Mama and Papa through this past year.

    Jan 4th

    In a tiny bar, in a small city in Italy, who should I bump into but Sandra Coffey - someone I worked with in Sydney four years ago!

    Leigh spotted her first as we made our usual evening espresso stop at our local cafe.

    Sandra, John and their kids Liam and Hanna had been staying in San Giminiano and were visiting Siena for the day.

    It's a small world indeed.

    Jan 3rd

    Went for a tour of the Palazzo Pubblico in Piazza del Campo today with some of my classmates from the Leonardo da Vinci school.

    The highlight was seeing an inlaid wood choir with scenes illustrating the creed. Incredible level of detail for what I'd thought would have been a pretty crude medium.

    Leigh still thinks her class is too hard.

    After being asked by her teacher for an example of an obscure grammar type, she loudly responded: "I don't know! I can't think of any!!"

    I tried to console her. "It's okay. If you could say that in Italian you're doing better than me."

    Leigh then admitted tearfully, "Yes, but I said it in English."

    Jan 2nd

    First day of the new Italian school today.

    I'm in Level 1, Leigh is in Level 3.

    Leigh is in a class she is convinced is to advanced for her and I'm in a class I'm positive is too basic for me.

    No doubt we'll reach our equilibrium in the next few days.

    Jan 1st

    Felice Anno Nuovo!

    Happy New Year!

    If the quality of a new year's eve celebration can be judged by how late you sleep in on new year's day, then we did just fine. We rolled out of bed at 11:30am this morning.

    Not that we went crazy last night. I should also mention we were in bed by 10:30pm. ;)

    New Year's Eve is overrated. If I want to stay up till midnight, get drunk and act like a lout I can do that any night of the week.

    In fact, I frequently do.

    Dec 31st

    We spent the day moving from Rome to Sienna where we'll spend the next four weeks.

    It really did take all day too. We missed one train because tickets were sold out and a second one when our connecting train ran half and hour late.

    There was snow on the ground when we arrived in Sienna. Definitely colder than Rome and coastal Sorrento.

    Dec 29th

    The church of Santa Maria della Vittoria has one of the strangest statues I've ever seen in a catholic church: The Ecstasy of St Theresa.

    According to the testemony of St Theresa, she had a dream of an angel who visited her bodily:

    "... his great golden spear ... filled with fire ... plunged into me several times ... penetrated to my entrails ... a sweetness so extreme that one could not wish it to stop"

    Bernini has sculpted a very expressive St Theresa in the midst of the throes of rapture with an angel standing above her prone form.

    Mama mia!

    Dec 28th, 2005

    28th - Indian, Roman forum A quick revisit to the Roman forum brought a massive shock for us.

    In Washington DC, a graffiti artist by the name of "Borf" has scrawled his name on practically ever flat surface within a two-mile radius of our old apartment.

    Imagine our horror to see this just near the Arch of Titus.

    Borf!

    Unbelieveable!

    An Indian restaurant made a welcome change from our constant diet of pasta and pizza. Rogan josh never tasted so good.

    Dec 27th, 2005

    Today we went to Rome's protestant cemetary, containing:

  • the remains of Keats, Shelley and Severn
  • a pyramid built in 1st century BC
  • about 1001 stray cats


    • I sat down on a bench near the grave of Keats only to quickly find two mangy tomcats making themselves at home on my lap.

    We've also managed to find a cinema which screens films in English (with Italian subtitles) which has allowed us to see Bill Murray in Broken Flowers as well as The Chronicles of Narnia.

    It's not that we haven't seen films dubbed in Italian, but they tend to be fairly action based, like King Kong and Harry Potter otherwise I would be completely lost.

    Dec 26th, 2005

  • Service: 2
  • Food: 9


    • That's how I would describe the trattoria we went to today.

    Clearly the packed restaurant must have catered more to locals than tourists, which is fine, but when the people at the next table (who arrived twenty minutes after us) were on their second course and we'd seen naught but bread I went off.

    In broken Engtalianish I asked whether we should wait for the meal or just grab the bill and leave.

    The waiter scurried off to the kitchen and within minutes we had probably the tastiest meal we've had in Italy.

    But now I'm conflicted. Should we go back, since the food was great? Or never return because of the poor service?

    Dec 25th, 2005

    Buon Natale!

    Other than this two month Italy trip which was our present to both of us, the standout gift was from Leigh who had compiled thirty or more photos of Philadelphia and had them made into a 2006 calendar.

    A nice way to make me feel homesick for Philadelphia even more!

    We went and saw the pope give his xmas message and blessings in about twenty different languages (including Mandarin and Swahili!).

    Maybe I should have been praying for world peace like the rest of the crowd in St Peter's Square, but I would have settled for a smaller miracle:

    Please God, make it stop raining!

    Tanti Auguri! (Best wishes!)

    Dec 24th, 2005

    Spent the day gathering supplies for our lonely xmas lunch tomorrow. :(

    We had been warned that most of the shops would be closed from this afternoon until after xmas, so we picked up a couple of steaks, a selection of tasty cheeses and some delicious pastries.

    Knowing Leigh's willpower, I'm sure half of the pastries will have disappeared before "Babbo Natale" has even made his way down our chimney.

    Dec 23rd, 2005

    Leigh and I went to the John Keats museum at the bottom of the Spanish steps today. It's basically the house Keats lived and died in, preserved in tact and opened to the public.

    They had samples of his letters, sketches and diary entries on display. It occurred to me that people nowadays don't really write by hand much any more.

    Everything is email and blogging instead of written correspondence and diary entries.

    In the stories section, I put together the notes I took when I saw Malcolm Gladwell in New York City.

    He spoke on precoscious kids and whether they go on to be successful adults.

    Dec 22nd, 2005

    Had a bunch of fun when I went to watch an Italian Soccer game at the pub last night.

    Today was another trip to St Peter's. All other previous times we've been thwarted entry due to the pope performing a xmas ceremony in front of the cathedral and other xmas related closures.

    But this time we got in and took a quick "free" tour of St Peter's from a guy from Ohio who had been living in Rome for 18 months.

    After he whisked us through at breakneck speed, barely stopping to admire the priceless works of art inside, he then took us outside and unashamedly asked whether:

  • a) we'd enjoyed the free tour
  • b) we'd mind chipping in two euros for the rental of the headsets
  • c) we'd be interested in a twenty-five euro tour of the Vatican Museum (also given by him and not including the twelve euro admission fee)


    • Nice try buddy!

    So we went back into St Peter's for a second slower look around.

    Dec 20th, 2005

    I went for a quick run around Rome yesterday morning. I was grossly underdressed in just shorts and shirt and I couldn't feel my arms from the elbows to my hands by the time I got back.

    Taking the opportunity to run through St Peter's square was priceless though.

    Leigh and I went and saw King Kong yesterday. The perfect movie to see dubbed in Italian, since most of the film is people running away from dinosaurs, insects and King Kong himself.

    Also - seeing Jack Black speak in Italian is pretty funny too.

    Dec 19th, 2005

    Leigh and I have officially been blessed by the Pope.

    We went to St Peter's square yesterday for the traditional Sunday noon appearance of Il Papa.

    The seven minute homily was conducted in Italian (most of which was lost on me). Next was some chanting in Latin, followed by greetings and blessings in Italian, English, French, Spanish and German.

    Hats off to His Holiness, who has a pretty important job, but can I just say: his English is appaling!

    His accent was so thick I thought he was either speaking in Dutch, German or Afrikaans before I realised he was giving the English blessing.

    Dec 18th, 2005

    Our apartment is tiny, but absolutely beautiful.

    It is stocked with a classic wooden writing desk, some great old prints on the walls, candles and various other pieces of collected art and pottery.

    Needless to say, I've already broken about four things already (none of them priceless though, I hope).

    Went to sit out in Piazza Navona at a cafe to read my book in the morning. Caught the warmth of the sun for an hour and the sting of a six Euro cappucino!

    I should have known a cafe so close the fountains would be a tourist trap.

    Tomorrow I'll have an 80 cent cappucino from around the corner and just sit for free in the piazza instead.

    Dec 17th, 2005

    I'm not sure if there is a "Murphy's Law of Travel", but if there was it would be:

  • In the fifteen minute walk to the train Station with your ridiculously heavy bags it will bucket down with rain heavier than you've ever seen in Italy, then promptly stop once you arrive at the ticket counter.


    • We are in Rome now.

    Leigh's memory is so good that we are even going back to the same gelateria we loved so much last time we were here.

    Dec 15th, 2005

    It was a day of mixed emotions today.

    To begin with, Leigh and I wagged Italian class today in order to drive to Amalfi and Ravello. Friends had told us of "Salvatore's" restaurant in Ravello with incredible food. We were stunned and mildly amused to find it was closed for repairs when we arrived.

    "Non che problema!" as the Italians might say.

    But some sad news once we arrived back in Sorrento and checked email: my grandfather (my "Pop") died today - one day after his 96th birthday.

    He had been in poor health for a while, but I still remember Pop best as the lively, friendly and devout man who taught me how to play dominoes and checkers (or "draughts" as he insisted on calling it.)

    Pop had a strong faith, once commenting that Queensland didn't need daylight saving. In his own words, "Why go around changing the Lord's time!"

    Rest in peace Pop. I'll raise a glass of apple cider and think of you.

    Dec 13th, 2005

    Finally the weather was clear enough yesterday to spend an afternoon exploring the island of Capri.

    Capri itself is small and beautiful but caters to the sort of tourist that must have significantly more money than we do. Prada, Dolce e Gabana and Armani all have boutiques on the island.

    I joked with Leigh that once I made a million bucks or so, Capri would be the place I'd bring my second wife (who I've already decided will be a stunning 22 year old swimsuit model from Brazil.)

    I've uploaded some more albums of pics to check out too.

    Dec 10th, 2005

    Despite predicted rain (hmph - we didn't see any) we decided to take the bus further down the coast to either Amalfi or Ravello.

    After a perilous bus ride along a narrow road winding it's way along the shear cliffs of the Amalfi Coast we made it as far as Positano, then thought we'd jump off there.

    High winds and low temperatures meant that after a brisk stroll we sensibly decided on a long, boozy lunch in one of Positano's magnificent seafood restaurants.

    E squisito!

    Dec 9th, 2005

    Leigh and I went to Pompeii yesterday.

    It was incredibly well preserved, but after three hours it started to get a bit wearing. As a friend rightly said, "If you've seen one ancient crumbling temple to a forgotten goddess, you've seen them all."

    Better late than never: the pics link has some photos posted from my recent roadtrip with Stu to New England.

    Maybe if I get my act together I'll post some Italian shots. ;)

    Dec 6th, 2005

    My new Italian name is Filippo!

    I've decided I'll answer to that from now on while I'm in Italy. When in Rome as they say ...

    Dec 5th, 2005

    The first day of Italian classes went well. Better than I expected actually.

    Leigh and I are in different classes for grammar but I got "promoted" into her intermediate conversational class.

    I had been warned there were two types of Italian student:
  • the type that knows all the rules, but speaks very slowly not wanting to make a mistake
  • the type that doesn't know the rules of grammar very well, but just blurts out the main noun verb and subject and has a red hot go at it


    • I promised myself I'd be of the second type.

    Oh - and the power is back on.

    We blew a fuse, and even though I tried resetting the circuit breakers in our apartment there was another fusebox outside we needed to reset.

    Dec 4th, 2005

    I'm writing this in the dark, since the power in our apartment in Sorento has gone out. Everyone else is fine - it's just us!

    The fun never stops!

    Leigh and I arrived in Sorento around lunchtime and after some initial problems finding the woman to give us the keys to the apartment, we have unpacked and are ready for two weeks of Italian school.

    Alreay I'm keen to hear some English entertainment, so a bit later I might put on a DVD of The Daily Show that friends gave to us as a going away present.

    Had two espressos today - so I'm sure I'll sleep terribly tonight. ;)

    Ciao.

    Dec 3rd, 2005

    I'm sitting in Gatwick waiting for the plane to Naples to start boarding.

    Anything I don't already know in Italian is just going to have to wait until I get to school.

    Leigh just informed me that upon arrival at school, the first item of business is an oral exam! Yikes!

    Added a list of stuff to do in Philadelphia based on an email I sent to a friend when she was visiting.

    Bon voyage!

    Dec 2nd, 2005

    Saw a play called "Translations" at the National Theatre yesterday.

    It was about the British military map-makers moving through Ireland Anglosizing all the Gaelic names.

    Added a story about Superbowl XXXIX where the Philadelphia Eagles brought us to the edge of ecstacy, only to drop us into the bowels of defeat.

    Nov 30th, 2005

    Arrived in London!

    Maybe I've been living in the United States too long, but everyone here seems to be driving on the wrong side of the road.

    I missing the US already. In fact I even made a list of the stuff I'll look back fondly on.

    Nov 17th, 2005

    Just added a story about meeting International Chess Master and two-time US Champion Jennifer Shahade.

    Enjoy!

    Nov 14th, 2005

    Wow - it's been a while.

    Just found a new free web host for me to put www.PhilWillisOnline.com  so now I'm back in action.

    Ready for Italy in two weeks!

    Nov 6th, 2005

    I went to see Swedish death metal gods Opeth last night.

    They were awesome.

    The venue in Sprinfield, VA was sold out but I managed to push, shove and gouge my way to the front of the surging crowd.

    The biggest ongoing concern in the seething head-banging mob was:

    "I hope that strand of sweaty hair in my mouth is mine!"

    I'm going to try to see them in Florence too. \m/

    Sep 28th, 2005

    Spending my last days in New York City at the moment.

    It's the middle of the New Yorker festival and I've had a chance to see Q&A panel discussions with Malcolm Gladwell (author of The Tipping Point and Blink) as well as the creators of South Park and The Simpsons!

    One day left to go and I think I'll see a one man show by a guy who recreates the entire Star Wars Trilogy in 90 minutes!

    Sep 22nd, 2005

    Moving sucks!

    But I'll tell you what doesn't suck: Craigslist

    It's awesome. Advertise your stuff on there and it sells like hotcakes!

    Sep 9th, 2005

    It's official! I've resigned from Honeywell, effective Fri Sep 23rd.

    In unrelated news I had to evacuate my apartment on Wed night because of a small fire on one of the floors below.

    I normally just ignore the fire alarm in my building, but when I looked out the window I saw people on the sidewalk staring and pointing, I knew it was time to bail.

    I grabbed my wallet, keys, phone and passport, put on a (relatively) clean pair of undies and went to the pub.

    Fire dept was on the scene pretty quickly and had the thing out in under ten minutes.

    Nothing like a bit of free entertainment.

    Aug 30th, 2005

    New stories, a much more sensible bio and with stubs for all the links.

    Aug 4th, 2005

    New stories, a new bio but still with some broken links. Thanks for being patient.

    In the meantime check out Philly three-piece jazz band Big Truck 

    July 22th, 2005

    Published a few of my running stories. Check them out here .

    www.PhilWillisOnline.com